The reason for the awkward scream was the vision of a surf spot that had been hibernating for such a long time (I'm a liar, I just wasn't there...) that for a while I thought it had passed away. But it hadn't. In fact the vision before me was of a very alive creature, one that already had claimed a victim, half a surf board left behind by the unlucky challenger.
Later that day I saw a local body boarder going for a double up. As it went onto the shallower part of the sandbar he free felled halfway through the drop. It threw a square barrel over him and he made it out. Later I paddled by on the way back from another wipeout on the shallow Supertubos, his face still had the same words written all over: "It's alive, it's alive!!"
Supertubos is not dead, September 2010
Photo: Sandra Stubenvoll Words: Marcos Bairros
Photo: Sandra Stubenvoll Words: Marcos Bairros
1 comentário:
Bom texto!
Boa foto!
Enviar um comentário